There is so much stimulus around me, too much information and thoughts to consolidate. But one aspect, and unfortunately a negative one, of Morocco that I want to post here is the harassment by touts.

In summary, the harassment has been ubiquitous, repetitive, disrespectful, and just unnecessarily unpleasant. This harassment has ranged from unsolicited guides, shop owners luring you into their shops, commission-makers taking you to hotels or shops, taxi drivers, and from children asking dirhims. I dont normally take countries by their face value because often it is an inaccurate representation. But Morocco, its hard to dig under the skin because all you get is the constant harassment.

Take today for example. I was walking along a road and this teenager comes up to me and asks me where I was going. I told him nowhere in particular and am just walking around (the conversation wasnt as smooth as this). I then pointed up the road and asked him where it led to. He told me that direction was his house and the tanneries. I was like great, I have heard about the tanneries (places where they manufacture and dye leather). I told him Ill walk in my own pace (since he had a bike). He insisted me on accompanying him. Upon reaching the tannery, he introduced me to this man (who I find out later is the boss of the tannery) who then showed me around the place. Later, he took me to a leather shop and left me in the hands of the shop owner. At the outset, I said I wasnt looking to buy anything. I actually had a nice conversation with the guy and had tea with him. I left the shop and on the way back, I met the original boy who now insisted I pay him for his service. I said to him, you cant demand money from people just like that. I kept walking but he kept on my heel. Tired of him I said, okay 5dh. He said that was nothing and asked for more, 100dh. he then said I must at least pay money to the boss; the man who show you around the tannery; he is the boss and you must pay him. I was incensed and unwilling to pay anything now. A few seconds later, the boss came up to us on a bike. The first two words that came out were, you unhappy? I was thinking, spot on. do I look happy? you and your accomplice are demanding money from me. Something boiled in me and I verbally slashed out at him. I think the harrassment up till now had accumulated to a point that my tolerance lid just blew off. I gave him a telling-off that this kind of behaviour is unacceptable in Australia, in UK etc, that you cant demand money from people without telling them that you intending to charge them. I said, it is not the business of guides that is unacceptable, but the way money is later extorted. I told him, if he wants to charge people, he should tell them at the outset. I went on about this behavior, not limited to this instance, reflects poorly on the country. Then I opened the palm of my hand and drew a line with my other hand across it, and said in Morocco there is no line between being friendly and being extortious. I said, in Australia, people ask for directions and when they receive instructions or are being taken part or whole of the way by others, that is seen as a friendly gesture. The helper does not turn around and demand money. I said I was repulsed by this kind of behavior. By now, I was just thinking about all my other experiences with touts, not just in Marrakech, but in Rissani, Chaouen, Fes, Meknes etc. I was NOT looking like a happy camper. The boss grew sullen but still asked for dirhim for entry into tannery. I said how much, and he said up to you. I said 10 dh. I handed over a twenty and he returned a ten.

I dont normally have a problem with touts and harrassments. I normally take it in my stride, often just ignoring endless offers of, Come and Look. Just Look and See. No Buy.
yea its repetitive and tiring, but its tameless. Evey few metres, I get this:

Konnichiwa! Ohaio! Arigato!
(if I have any energy I respond) Hi. Not from Japan.
......(they are actually silent for a second or two and for these precious seconds I use them to gain a few more metres more)....
(in the near background I hear shouts of) From Korea? No (I yell back)
Canada? (I dont know why I get this)
Taiwanese?
China? (then I always think about the politics of the HK-China relationship).

By now I would have gone out of reasonable range to respond. That may sound rude, but if I give a proper response, I can only expect to be in their shop/impromptu tour for a long time.

The harassment in India is famed, if not notorious. But over there, it is more like a game. If you stand firm your ground, they stop harassing you or often just start joking and talking with you once they know you arent going to change your mind (to buy at a certain price or go to hotel with you). It is just part of the culture and its always a give and take. Its possible to have a lengthy but friendly bartering session. But in Morocco, it is all just take, take, take. it seems no good deeds are done without a hidden motive. The way the harassment is done is enough to keep me from revisiting Morocco. Its a shame because Morocco has so much to offer in terms - the beautiful Sahara deserts, the awe gaping Atlas mountain ranges, the millions of souks (markets), the medinas of each town. But it is a downfall for the tourist industry if the people whom tourists frequently interact with behave in such a way as they do.

Enough about harassment. Just something about Morocco. I have had a honestly good time in Morocco so far. But its missing the omph..the something extra to lure me back. its sort of indescribable. In India, an attraction was made. i thought, Morocco and India would be similar and that I would fall in love with Morocco as I had with India. I wonder why not? I was thinking about this as I walked through the colourful souks. Its got the crowds, the buzz in the air, the colours, the food, the smells, the crafts. I think its down to the people. Im not saying Indians are friendlier than Moroccans. What a generalization and impossible inference to be made from my limited experiences with locals. But I think India is different because the society is so much more open and penetratable. I felt I really got to know some Indians and their way of life. But the arab culture, prehaps owed to the religion, in Morocco is so difficult to truely experience as a visitor. there is like an invisible wall or mask disguising the true Morocco. it is difficult to get close to the men because they will take this the wrong way. Just giving them a nod will set them off. I passed this guy standing against a wall and I simply gave a nod (a sign of acknowledgment/hi). A few seconds later, I find him walking side by side with me asking me if I wanted to have coffee and chat with him. it is equally difficult to get intimate with the women, at least the older generation because they are rarely alone (with a husband or family), and if they are alone, you just dont have the opportunity to strike a conversation. Shopowners, bank workers, taxi drivers, bus drivers, even passengers on long haul rides I have been on have been predominantly male.